Paris in July, 2025 - Where to eat/Travels

Thank you to Emma @ Words and Peace who is hosting this event this year as well. We are already guided into the various themes of this year. Head over to Emma's website for more information.

We have all heard about the French food and how wonderful it is. However, when you are in France, you don’t always have this experience. We travelled in different areas of France quite frequently, when we lived in Belgium, but we did not have a lot of good food experiences during those trips. So, how did Paris treat me? Not much better. Please, misunderstand me right. I am sure there are fantastic restaurants in Paris, and in France. The problem is you have to know where to go.

I should not complain too much because it turned out I was quite lucky with my restaurant choices. But, there were a few I have already forgotten about. Here are a few of my favourite restaurants. Some are very touristic places I just had to visit, although they were fine. After all, the authors and artists who lived here in the 1920 frequented these restaurants. A must, I mean …

I start with the top two restaurant that I would gladly go back to, and highly recommend. Here I found wonderful interiors, good food and excellent service.

Brasserie Lipp (151 Bd Saint-Germain, 6th arr.)

The brasserie was founded in 1880 by Léonard Lipp and his wife Pétronille. They were from Alsace so their speciality was a ‘cervelat remoulade’ (a smoked sausage from pork and beef) as a starter, followed by ‘choucroute garnie’ (what else?) served with beers. In those days prices were very moderate (obviously did not last into our time) and the atmosphere was a great success (which has lasted into our time). It was redesigned by Marcellin Cazes, the new owner, in 1920. By this time it was frequented by poets such as Paul Verlaine and Guillaume Apollinaire, and their expat followers. I presume the decorations are the same as we see today. Tiled murals with painted ceilings and purple moleskin seating. In 1955, the brasserie was taken over by his son Roger.

The interior is beautiful (sorry for the bad photo, but it was difficult to get a good shot). It was quite full when I arrived in the late afternoon, but I got a table rather quickly. The waiters with their formal dress with the white napkins over the arm, ran around to serve the hungry guests. I took a beef filé with sauce béarnaise and it was divine, just melted in the mouth, together with a wonderful glass of French red wine. I wanted to have île flottante, one of my favourite desserts, since it is difficult to get anywhere else than in France. Unfortunately, too many of the guests had the same idea, so nothing was left for me. I had a crème caramel instead, which is another favourite. Fantastic.

Procope ( 13 Rue de l'Ancienne Comédie, Paris, 6th arr.)

I ran into this restaurant on my way home. However, I had read about it and wanted to visit. It is the oldest café in Paris and was the first restaurant to introduce coffee and offering table service in a porcelain cup. Since 1686, it has been a symbol of French gastronomy and the Parisian art of living. It is situated in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés and has stood the test of time. The great minds of literary, artistic and political society used to meet here; La Fontaine, Voltaire, Rousseau, Benjamin Franklin, Danton, Marat, Diderot, Napoleon, Balzac, Hugo, Gambetta, Verlaine and Anatole France. Noblesse oblige, I was thinking upon entering the establishment. Would they let me in wearing my tights and t-shirt? They did.

Cosy library corner in the restaurant

Upper floor dining room

Another dining room

I got a table in a small room at the back of the restaurant, which also has an entrance from a small alley. I could enjoy a cosy library where presumably Voltaire once was sitting, eating, reading and discussing. It is stated that each recipe has been carefully preserved and are still used today; such as Coq au vin and Joue de Bœuf braisée. I chose the first one which was delicious. As a dessert I tried a strawberry Pavlova, which was covered with too much cream to be perfect. But, a wonderful surrounding for a meal. During the meal it became very dark and it started hailing. Big hail balls fell on the streets of the alley. It gave me a good excuse to stay a little bit longer. Before leaving, I visited the upper floors which have smaller rooms for dinner guests, all beautifully decorated with antique furniture.

Les Deux Magots (6, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Paris, 6th arr.)

Since the very beginning this café has been a favourite hangout for famous artists and writers such as Guillaume Apollinaire, André Gide, Jacques Prévert, Ernest Hemingway, and many more. Even literary and artistic movements were conceived here, such as André Breton’s surrealism and Jean-Paul Sartre’s and Simone de Beauvoir’s ideas of existentialism. Even today it is a creative crossroads within the arts, as well as all tourists who are interested in soaking up the atmosphere. Me being one of them.

There seems to always be a queue outside, but I was rather lucky and only had to wait around 10 minutes. I got a table at a glassed in terrace with a view to the street. The service was good and friendly. I only had my favourite sallad; Chèvre chaud with sallad, walnuts and figs. A kir to start with and a glass of Sancerre (always excellent) to go down with it. It was, in spite of all the people around, rather pleasant and peaceful to sit at the café and reflect on its history. Price wise a little bit of a tourist trap, but more or less what you pay in other cafés and restaurants.

Its history goes back to the end of the 19th century and if you are interested you can read it from this document, downloaded from their website.

LM (13 rue de Médici, Paris, 6th arr.)

This beautiful and relaxed café is situated along the Jardin de Luxembourg. I visited it two times, because of its very tasty Chèvre Chaud sallad and its nice atmosphere and possibility to sit outside on the pavement overlooking the park. The service was good and friendly and seemed to highlight ecological and fresh ingredients. Perfect for a light lunch.

Not the best of photos, but a relaxing atmosphere

Roger de Beyrouth (103, Rue Monge, Paris, 5th arr.)

I was lucky to find this Lebanese restaurant on my way home, rather early one evening (very close to metro Censier-Daubenton). As always with Lebanese food it was excellent. I enjoyed a Kafta, which is one of my favourite dishes, together with a lovely Lebanese wine. It included very friendly service. Quite pleased when I afterwards slowly walked back to my hotel.

Café des Deux Moulins (15 Rue Lépic, Paris, Montmartre)

If you have not seen the film about Amélie from Montmartre, or, Le fabuloux destin d’Amélie Poulain (The Fabulous Destiny of Amélie Poulain), a French romantic comedy from 2001 you have to. It is a wonderful film and I can highly recommend it. She lived in Montmartre and used to go to her neighbourhood restaurant. It was filmed in Café des Deux Moulins which is a nice café, almost with a touch of American fifties bars. Quite simple, but having a nice atmosphere. On the menu you can eat Amélie’s favourite food. I chose her favourite main dish boeuf du bourgogne, which was really good.

Amélie in a mirrored version

Cave La Bourgogne (144 Rue Mouffetard, Paris, 5th arr.)

Another easy going restaurant/café close to the hotel and close to metro station Censier-Daubenton. Good and friendly service with a variety of food so you are sure to find something that please you. Both inside and outside seating. I ate there twice and had breakfast once. Turned out to become a favourite spot, and I wish I had found it earlier.

All in all it seems my eating experience in Paris was very good. I did aim for a few of them, mostly due to literary connections, but the rest was just lucky spur of the moment visits.